Wondering about that anti-aging serum you’re developing for 2024?

Look no further than derms like Marisa Garshick to lead you in the right direction. She’s seen it all!

Garshick is a board-certified dermatologist serving patients throughout Manhattan, New York and Englewood, NJ at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery. She’s also an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell – New York Presbyterian Medical Center. Dr. Garshick is a member of the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery and the Women’s Dermatologic Society.

We asked Dr. Garshick about the top ingredients she loves and why these materials are best in class when it comes to skin care NPD. Here’s her take on some of the leading components for skincare right now:

Retinaldehyde

MG: Retinaldehyde refers to a type of vitamin A derivative that is considered more potent than retinol and less irritating than a prescription retinoid, like tretinoin. When considering vitamin A derivatives, in order to have an impact on the skin they need to be converted to retinoic acid. Retinaldehyde is considered more potent than retinol because retinaldehyde requires fewer steps to be converted to retinoic acid as compared to retinol and only requires one step to be converted to retinoid acid in order for it to have its effect on the skin. While it can be used by all skin types, it is especially great for someone who is unable to tolerate a prescription retinoid, as may be the case for someone with dry or sensitive skin. Retinaldehyde is a great option for someone who has been able to tolerate a retinol but isn’t seeing their desired results and wants to try something more potent, or for someone who is unable to tolerate a prescription retinoid.
 

Copper Peptides

MG: Copper peptides, made up of copper and amino acids which serve as the building blocks of proteins, is a type of carrier peptide. It is found naturally in our body and decrease with age. When peptides are incorporated into skincare products, they tell your body to produce more collagen which helps with sagging skin, improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, can improve texture and help to firm the skin, overall restoring a youthful appearance to the skin. Various peptides include carrier peptides, which deliver minerals necessary for wound healing such as copper to the skin to promote collagen production. Copper peptides are thought to work by boosting collagen and elastin production, thereby improving the texture of the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and also firming the skin, as seen in this report.

Copper peptides are also thought to have antioxidant benefits, and help to brighten the skin and protect the skin against free radical damage. Additionally, copper peptides promote the production of glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid, so it helps to boost moisture as well.  It can also be used to promote wound healing and has also been shown to help with acne scarring.
 

Caffeine

MG: Being incorporated into eye creams and body creams, caffeine is being used for its depuffing and firming properties. Caffeine is a key ingredient to help address puffiness and inflammation as it works to vasoconstrict, or clamp down, on the blood vessels which helps to reduce swelling and discoloration in the undereye area. It is commonly found in eye creams and can be used 1-2 times per day.
 

Niacinamide

MG: This multifunctional ingredient continues to be popular in skincare. Niacinamide offers many benefits as it improves discoloration and hyperpigmentation, calms and soothes the skin, reducing inflammation and redness, in addition to offering antioxidant properties. It is especially good in the fall and winter months as it is gentle on the skin and can help to support the skin barrier by boosting ceramide production.
 

Snail Mucin

MG: Snail mucin is known for its hydrating properties as in addition to ingredients like glycoproteins, it contains hyaluronic acid to help boost moisture. Snail mucin also contains glycolic acid helping to reduce dullness while also working to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
 
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